The State

For centuries, men and women have flocked to 'The Golden State' in a quest for beauty and pleasure. California has it all: snow-capped mountains, endless deserts, lush primeval forests and long stretches of golden beach – all within easy reach. This is also the home of Los Angeles, the 'entertainment capital of the world', where millions of star-struck hopefuls make their bid for fame and fortune.

California's reputation as a cradle of eternal opportunity stems from a divergent blend of cultural influence and sophistication. Think California and you will think of the sweet vanilla scent of Jeffery pines and the eerie glimmer of the desert floor, of the unbuttoned liberalism of the Bay Area and the chic stylisation of Los Angeles (LA).

The pacifist movements of the 1960s and 1970s, the political tensions of the 1980s and the race riots of the present decade are further testaments to the delicate harmony of forces which prevail in 'The Golden State'.

The most populous State in the USA, California's major tourist destinations include Los Angeles, San Francisco and San Diego, the lush resorts of Santa Barbara and Palm Springs and the artists' communities of Laguna Beach and Mendocino.

California is shaped like a long trough. In the middle is the long, shallow San Joaquin Valley (also known as 'the Great Valley'), which is surrounded by the Sierra Nevada to the east and the Coastal Ranges to the west. Much of California's landscape has been raised by volcanoes, lowered by earthquakes, scoured by glaciers and eroded by rivers. The northern reaches, near McArthur-Burney Falls Memorial State Park, northeast of Redding, for instance, show evidence of the volcanic activity of the southern Cascade mountain range.

About 130 million years ago, great forces from deep within the earth began to raise the 580km (360-mile) long Sierra range. Inch by inch, a gradual slope was created on the western side, and a precipitous drop formed on the eastern side towards the desert. The oldest rocks in the Sierra were created beneath the earth's crust during the early Paleozoic Era, or roughly 500 million years ago. Two great river systems, the Sacramento in the north and the San Joaquin in the south, drain the Sierra.

The Coastal Ranges lie to the northwest of the Central and Sacramento valleys and border the Pacific Ocean. They extend from near Eureka in the north to just above Santa Barbara in the south, where the Transverse Ranges begin.

The peninsular mountain range extends from the southern border of these ranges to the bottom of the Baja. One of its most prominent peaks is Mount San Jacinto, located in the State Park of the same name.

Three desert areas occupy the remaining southeastern portion of California. The Mojave Desert is generally termed 'the high desert', the Colorado is referred to as 'the low desert', and the Great Basin is a high plateau that also holds Death Valley. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park, California's largest State Park, is found in the Colorado Desert to the east of San Diego.

The North Coast of California is a land of rugged shoreline and pounding surf, of towering redwood forests and rushing rivers, of verdant hills and vineyards. Stretching nearly 645km (400 miles) north of San Francisco to the Oregon border, the North Coast reaches 80km (50 miles) inland to encompass the world-renowned wine areas of Lake, Mendocino, Napa and Sonoma counties. Recreational opportunities are as prolific as the wineries – bicycling past vineyards or boarding a wine train, hiking in primeval redwood forests or walking along the coast, deep-sea fishing or fly-fishing on a stream, boating on a lake or rafting down a river, hot-air ballooning or skygliding, soaking in hot mineral springs or luxuriating in a mud bath.

In the northeastern corner of the State lies one of the country's most beautiful and unspoiled regions – the Shasta Cascade. With a population of less than 250,000, this is an area which appeals to visitors wishing to escape the frantic crowds and enjoy truly breathtaking natural surroundings. Roughly the size of Ohio, Shasta Cascade's towering mountains carved by ancient glaciers, waterfalls, whitewater rivers, dense forests and icy blue lakes provide stunning vistas. The celebrated California Cascade range is to be found here. It includes two giant glaciated volcanoes, the dormant 4248m (14,162ft) Mount Shasta and the still active 3137m (10,457ft) Lassen Peak. The excitement and adventure of California's Gold Rush are preserved in the historic mining towns located in the lower Sierra foothills.

The agricultural heartland of California is the Central Valley region, nestling between the coastal foothills and the western slopes of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. This sweeping valley is laced with thousands of miles of waterways, dotted with reservoirs, green pastures, orchards and vineyards. The numerous rivers that run through the valley provide unlimited recreation. From houseboating on the Delta, to whitewater river rafting, to fishing and boating on one of the many lakes, the Central Valley region is the natural choice for visitors anytime of the year.

Moving towards the coast, the San Francisco Bay Area is one of the world's most popular vacation destinations. From San Francisco itself, with its remarkable skylines and lively, cosmopolitan atmosphere, to the neighbouring cities of Oakland, San José, San Mateo, San Rafael, Santa Clara, Sausalito and Vallejo, the Bay Area offers world-class museums, restaurants, wineries, shopping and historic sites. Lovers of the great outdoors will delight in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area and Santa Cruz, a fun-filled coastal resort area.

Moving south, the magical Central Coast region, whose landscape stretches between Los Angeles and San Francisco, is often called California's 'middle kingdom'. The coast stretches some 563km (350 miles) from San Francisco south to Ventura. It includes some of California's most beautiful coastline where small, isolated sandy beaches can be discovered interspersed between jagged cliffs. At Ano Nuevo State Reserve, just north of Santa Cruz, visitors can get close to hefty, surprisingly fast-moving bull elephant seals or stand on promontories and watch as whales migrate to Mexico and Alaska. One of California's showplaces, the Big Sur Coast, is found in this region, as well as one of the world's most scenic drives; the cliff-hugging Coast Highway 1 which transports visitors to Mediterranean-like coastal resorts and dazzling beaches. The Central Coast lays claim to Channel Islands National Park, Hearst Castle State Historic Monument and the acclaimed Monterey Bay Aquarium. Recreation reigns supreme here: activities on offer include boating, surfing, fishing and clamming, golfing, biking, camping and hiking.

The sky is the limit in Los Angeles County, where star-spotters can revel in glamorous Hollywood and Beverly Hills. The 'entertainment capital of the world' lives up to its name, and offers the best in theatre, symphony and ballet, along with fabulous museums, numerous sporting events and a host of superb restaurants. With miles of sunny coastline, from Long Beach to Redondo Beach, to Santa Monica and Malibu, LA is a paradise on earth for sports enthusiasts and sun worshippers. An abundance of State Parks and natural recreation areas offer hiking, bicycling and equestrian trails. The Santa Monica and San Gabriel mountains offer refuge to campers, hikers and skiers. History buffs can sample early Californian life, with a mix of missions, rustic ranchos and adobes; while admirers of architecture can see everything from Victorian-era mansions to soaring 20th-century skyscrapers.

When people think of Southern California, they usually imagine sun worshippers enjoying vast white sand beaches, but there is much more here for the discerning visitor. For hikers and mountain bikers, miles of trails that wind from the beaches into the coastal hills offer tranquillity as well as spectacular views of the ocean. Naturally, the south coast, stretching from San Diego to Los Angeles, maintains its reputation as a world-class destination with an ideal climate and miles of sandy beaches along the Pacific Ocean. Spanish-flavoured San Diego County is brimming with unlimited opportunities for water sports – boating, fishing, surfing and swimming, to name just a few. Other attractions include numerous art and cultural museums, as well as historic attractions such as 18th-century Spanish missions and the Cabrillo National Monument, which commemorates the 1542 landing of Spanish explorers. Animal lovers can choose among three major theme parks – the renowned San Diego Zoo, the aquatically themed Sea World and the San Diego Wild Animal Park; or view native Californian wildlife at several nature preserves in the county. A visit to San Diego County offers an abundance of activity: from golfing and spa-ing in the north to deep-sea fishing and whale watching offshore and exploring the deserts and mountains to the east.

Moving inland from the south coast, California's warm Deserts Region is an area of expansive landscapes, brilliant skies, traces of pioneer history and glittering resort cities. Natural phenomena abound – from the solitude of Death Valley National Monument to the vast Joshua Tree National Monument. In spring, the desert explodes with displays of bright wild flowers. Wildlife ranges from migrating waterfowl and big horn sheep to sidewinder snakes and soaring eagles. This is a land of contrasts, where visitors can enjoy the quiet pleasures of the back country one day and experience the excitement of a sun-splashed resort in the Coachella Valley the next. Although the land is arid, reservoirs provide a nearly endless summer of recreational delight. Other options include trekking ancient native Native American lands, boating down the Colorado River, rock-hounding in gem-laden valleys, fishing on the Salton Sea, watching wildlife in a natural preserve, exploring a rustic ghost town, driving along historic Route 66 or riding a tram half-way to the stars.

California's natural diversity is significantly greater than that found in many nations of the world, a fact best appreciated by exploring the State Parks. These 275 parks preserve California's unique natural resources for posterity while offering an abundance of recreational and educational opportunities, including hiking, fishing, bicycling and camping. During the past 30 years, the State's population has doubled and the use of the parks has increased eight-fold. Approximately 75 million visitors now use the State Parks each year and the Department of Parks and Recreation are working to ensure that the delicate ecosystems, home to the black bear, bighorn sheep, tule elke and California mule deer, are protected. Every summer, millions of people head to State park campsites to spend a relaxing weekend (or longer).

As well as designated camping areas and guided tours, nearly every State Park offers a variety of year-round special events, often connected to natural seasonal changes. Highlights range from monarch butterflies returning to Natural Bridges State Beach, to elephant seals mating at Ano Nuevo State Reserve, to winter snows allowing for cross-country skiing classes and tours at Sugar Pine Point SP. Many programmes are on offer during the summer, including campfire programmes, nature walks, the 'Junior Ranger' programme (for eleven to twelve-year-olds), fishing derbies, foot races and mountain biking tours. Fourteen parks, some with horse rental facilities, provide equestrian camping, with picnic tables and barbecue stoves.

For visitors seeking a high standard of comfort, the State Park System operates one major overnight accommodation – the Big Sur Lodge at Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, 42km (26 miles) south of Carmel on Highway 1. The lodge offers 61 rooms. North of Santa Cruz, Big Basin Redwoods State Park has 36 tent cabins. Ten primitive cabins are available at Mount Tamalpais State Park just north of San Francisco. Malakoff Diggins State Historic Park in the Gold County, northeast of Nevada City, also has a few basic cabins. Different kinds of passes are available to visitors, including discounts for senior citizens and the disabled. Facilities for the latter are improving constantly and currently include Calaveras Big Trees State Park's braille trail through a giant sequoia grove and a nature trail through the Antelope Valley California Poppy Reserve. There is also a boardwalk across Ano Nuevo State Reserve's sand dunes, a group picnic area at Plumas-Eureka State Park and access to fishing at Salton Sea State Recreation Area.